THE GREEN GREEN GRASS

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Breathless, we flung us on a windy hill, laughed in the sun, and kissed the lovely grass by Rupert Brooke

Sitting quietly, doing nothing,
Spring comes, and the grass grows by itself. – The Gospel According To Zen

The grass may be greener on the other side of the fence,
but you still have to mow it. Anon.
Grass is the cheapest plant to install and the most expensive to maintain. – Pat Howell

Lawns polarise. Gardeners and non-gardeners argue about them and we fuss over them probably more than any other plant. It’s a true love/hate relationship but I´m not going to argue the pros and cons here. I simply want to remind you that, if you own a lawn, now is the time to give it some tender loving care if you want that ´green sward´ to be proud of.

Most lawns here are planted with Bermuda grass or cynodon dactylon. It gives a springy surface well able to cope with heavy duty wear. Few people recognise that it is also the invasive weed that we know so well as couch grass.

Widely used for lawns in warm climates, even though it browns off in cooler winter temperatures, it is one of few that will support the rigours of summer heat without incessant watering. It forms thick mats by means of stolons and the spreading stems take root at the lower nodes. Invasive, yes, but it´s also very tolerant and stabilises ground very well.

Even though it is tough and forms a much coarser lawn than we would be used to in Northern Europe, it still requires a level of care to look good and the best time for that is now.

A well-kept lawn will give you less problems. Fertilising will keep the grass vigorous and strong enough to block out weeds. Best to use a special lawn fertiliser (we have an organic one in stock) – never sprinkle the chemical granules, type 15-15-15, because they will burn the grass. Cut it regularly to thicken and strengthen and, if weeds do invade, apply a selective weed-killer for lawns which will kill off broad-leaved weeds and leave the grass intact, again we have one in stock. There are also a few other tasks you can perform to have an exuberant lawn.

Aeration: Over time, the ground under your lawn becomes compacted and it becomes important to aerate it so that water can be absorbed instead of puddling on the surface. These permanently wet areas will suffocate the grass roots, growth will be weak and moss will take hold. Aeration is simply achieved by going over the area with a fork or spiked shoes. In thick clay soils, sand can then be raked into these holes to improve drainage. Normally this would be carried out every 2 or 3 years, always in springtime.

Scarification: Again, over time, your lawn will build up a ´thatch´ of dead leaves, roots etc. which is detrimental to the living grass. It suffocates, prevents water entering and can cause fungal infection; so it is best removed. Using a lawn rake (long curved tines which, whilst strong, are also springy) rake over the entire surface one way then repeat at right angles. This should be carried out every couple of years, in springtime and after you´ve given the lawn a short cut. Dispose of all the debris. The immediate aspect of the lawn will be ugly but, don´t worry, your grass will appreciate it and within a few days will be looking better! 

Now is a good time to fertilise or level out low areas with a fine layer of soil; water well after either application. Scarifying will also enable you to see if there are any bald or thin patches (often in areas of heavy duty, natural pathways etc.) and, if so, re-sow. When re-sowing, always try to match your existing grass type otherwise patches will be very obvious. We have tubs of cynodon dactylon in stock. Cover these freshly sown areas with a light layer of soil to speed germination and make sure to keep them moist. If the area is really poor, containing less than 50% of grass, you´d be better to dig it over and start afresh rather than patching.

For new areas, dig/rake over the area to a depth of approx. 15cm. and work in a quality top soil. Level to the same height as the surrounding lawn. Scatter seed as indicated on the pack (type of grass will dictate coverage rate) and lightly cover with 2mm. of good soil, raking very lightly. Compact it lightly with a wooden board. Keep this top surface damp, watering with a fine spray perhaps as often as four times a day to aid germination. Once the new grass is 2 cm high, you can reduce watering to normal levels for the lawn.

I´d advise always using an ant powder when sowing grass seed as they seem to have a passion for the seeds and you´ll see them carrying them off.
Re-sewing here, with warm weather grasses, is best carried out during springtime, when the weather starts to warm up. If you are planting stolons, this can be carried out from April through summer, given that you can apply sufficient water so that the surface never dries out.

And that´s your springtime lawn care and now –
ready, steady, mow …..

Easter Opening Hours: We are open throughout Easter on our usual hours 10 – 4 and closed Sundays and Mondays.

Lorraine Cavanagh owns the specialist garden centre Viveros Florena, Competa, Malaga (garden centre, designers & landscapers) and is author of the best-selling Mediterranean Garden Plants and Citrus, The Zest of Life. Both are on sale at the garden centre or on-line through our web page.-
NEW check our on-line shop for unusual plants, organic products and my books.

Keep checking the web page for latest news, stock etc. at the garden centre.

Join our mailing list to be kept informed.

Summer Hours:
June, July, September, 9 – 2, closed for August.

Winter Hours:
October to May 10 – 4

Al

Breathless, we flung us on a windy hill, laughed in the sun, and kissed the lovely grass by Rupert Brooke

Sitting quietly, doing nothing,
Spring comes, and the grass grows by itself. – The Gospel According To Zen

The grass may be greener on the other side of the fence,
but you still have to mow it. Anon.
Grass is the cheapest plant to install and the most expensive to maintain. – Pat Howell

Lawns polarise. Gardeners and non-gardeners argue about them and we fuss over them probably more than any other plant. It’s a true love/hate relationship but I´m not going to argue the pros and cons here. I simply want to remind you that, if you own a lawn, now is the time to give it some tender loving care if you want that ´green sward´ to be proud of.

Most lawns here are planted with Bermuda grass or cynodon dactylon. It gives a springy surface well able to cope with heavy duty wear. Few people recognise that it is also the invasive weed that we know so well as couch grass.

Widely used for lawns in warm climates, even though it browns off in cooler winter temperatures, it is one of few that will support the rigours of summer heat without incessant watering. It forms thick mats by means of stolons and the spreading stems take root at the lower nodes. Invasive, yes, but it´s also very tolerant and stabilises ground very well.

Even though it is tough and forms a much coarser lawn than we would be used to in Northern Europe, it still requires a level of care to look good and the best time for that is now.

A well-kept lawn will give you less problems. Fertilising will keep the grass vigorous and strong enough to block out weeds. Best to use a special lawn fertiliser (we have an organic one in stock) – never sprinkle the chemical granules, type 15-15-15, because they will burn the grass. Cut it regularly to thicken and strengthen and, if weeds do invade, apply a selective weed-killer for lawns which will kill off broad-leaved weeds and leave the grass intact, again we have one in stock. There are also a few other tasks you can perform to have an exuberant lawn.

Aeration: Over time, the ground under your lawn becomes compacted and it becomes important to aerate it so that water can be absorbed instead of puddling on the surface. These permanently wet areas will suffocate the grass roots, growth will be weak and moss will take hold. Aeration is simply achieved by going over the area with a fork or spiked shoes. In thick clay soils, sand can then be raked into these holes to improve drainage. Normally this would be carried out every 2 or 3 years, always in springtime.

Scarification: Again, over time, your lawn will build up a ´thatch´ of dead leaves, roots etc. which is detrimental to the living grass. It suffocates, prevents water entering and can cause fungal infection; so it is best removed. Using a lawn rake (long curved tines which, whilst strong, are also springy) rake over the entire surface one way then repeat at right angles. This should be carried out every couple of years, in springtime and after you´ve given the lawn a short cut. Dispose of all the debris. The immediate aspect of the lawn will be ugly but, don´t worry, your grass will appreciate it and within a few days will be looking better!
Now is a good time to fertilise or level out low areas with a fine layer of soil; water well after either application. Scarifying will also enable you to see if there are any bald or thin patches (often in areas of heavy duty, natural pathways etc.) and, if so, re-sow. When re-sowing, always try to match your existing grass type otherwise patches will be very obvious. We have tubs of cynodon dactylon in stock. Cover these freshly sown areas with a light layer of soil to speed germination and make sure to keep them moist. If the area is really poor, containing less than 50% of grass, you´d be better to dig it over and start afresh rather than patching.

For new areas, dig/rake over the area to a depth of approx. 15cm. and work in a quality top soil. Level to the same height as the surrounding lawn. Scatter seed as indicated on the pack (type of grass will dictate coverage rate) and lightly cover with 2mm. of good soil, raking very lightly. Compact it lightly with a wooden board. Keep this top surface damp, watering with a fine spray perhaps as often as four times a day to aid germination. Once the new grass is 2 cm high, you can reduce watering to normal levels for the lawn.

I´d advise always using an ant powder when sowing grass seed as they seem to have a passion for the seeds and you´ll see them carrying them off.
Re-sewing here, with warm weather grasses, is best carried out during springtime, when the weather starts to warm up. If you are planting stolons, this can be carried out from April through summer, given that you can apply sufficient water so that the surface never dries out.

And that´s your springtime lawn care and now –
ready, steady, mow …..

Easter Opening Hours: We are open throughout Easter on our usual hours 10 – 4 and closed Sundays and Mondays.

Lorraine Cavanagh owns the specialist garden centre Viveros Florena, Competa, Malaga (garden centre, designers & landscapers) and is author of the best-selling Mediterranean Garden Plants and Citrus, The Zest of Life. Both are on sale at the garden centre or on-line through our web page.-
NEW check our on-line shop for unusual plants, organic products and my books.

Keep checking the web page for latest news, stock etc. at the garden centre.

Join our mailing list to be kept informed.

Summer Hours:
June, July, September, 9 – 2, closed for August.

Winter Hours:
October to May 10 – 4

Always closed Sundays and Mondays.

Tel: 689928201

See us on Facebook – Lorraine Cavanagh’s Garden Centre

Web page: www.viverosflorena.com Email: florenaspain@hotmail.com

ways closed Sundays and Mondays.

Tel: 689928201

See us on Facebook – Lorraine Cavanagh’s Garden Centre

Web page: www.viverosflorena.com Email: florenaspain@hotmail.com