The three weekends following the Night of the Kings the villages have their festivals. On 20th January, homage is paid to San Sebastian, patron saint of Cómpeta.
Festivities take place in the Barrio, the area near the park at the entrance to Cómpeta. village. The fair has been in existence for ten years, and keeps the tradition of enjoying free migas, sardines, salt cod and oranges, accompanied by Cómpeta wine. Food is followed by dancing, singing and the amazing ribbon race, which has to be seen to be believed. The procession returns to the Ermita accompanied by singing and fireworks. The same weekend is San Anton, with the blessing of the animals.
Celé Fernandez asked me to ride with him at the San Anton Fair. This was indeed a great honour, as not only am I a foreigner, but also a woman (and not a young one!). The horse world in Spain is dominated by men, not like in the UK where the majority of riders are women. The prancing, elegant Spanish horses with their nodding heads and beautiful manners are the pride of many a Spanish gentleman. We set off for Archez having washed the horses, Pampero (my steed – a magnificent 12 year old gelding) and Tunante (Celé´s 5 year old stallion).
First to Archez where the paella was being prepared by Gustavo from La Plaza in Canillas (66 kgs of rice, and it escapes me just how many kgs.of other ingredients) – enough paella for 800 people! Then on to Salares a long ride, met en route by Pepé on his father´s grey gelding, Moro. As we approached Salares the horses started to get very excited and as we joined the parade where equines of all shapes and sizes had gathered, I realised that this was going to be one of the best days of my life. We rode in the procession behind the virgin mules, donkeys, horses – cheered on by a large enthusiastic crowd, accompanied by the band and foot followers. Past the band twice, the animals blessed by the priest, then about 15 of us set back off up the road to Archez. If the horsemen of Cómpeta found it strange to have a woman in their midst they were too polite to show it and did me the great service of looking after me without appearing to. As we proceeded up the road, I heard them saying they were going to gallop. I said “Vamos” and we all galloped off me even passing one of them. Pampero was in his element!
Back at Archez, we made our entrance and retired to eat the delicious paella and drink a couple of beers before setting off back to Cómpeta. Tired but happy after 5 hours in the saddle, I considered what a marvellous day it had been, and again the hospitality and friendliness the people of this area offer to all nationalities who choose to visit their beautiful country.
